Tokyo is a city of contrasts, where neon-lit skyscrapers stand beside centuries-old shrines, and where some of the most innovative cocktail bars in the world are tucked away on unmarked floors of office buildings. Among these hidden gems is Bar Benfiddich, a small, dimly lit bar in Nishi-Shinjuku run by bartender and herbalist Hiroyasu Kayama. Known for his devotion to botanical spirits and ritualistic service, Kayama has transformed the bar into one of Tokyo’s most intriguing destinations for those seeking absinthe.
Origins and Philosophy
Opened in 2013, Bar Benfiddich has stood apart from the beginning. Unlike many cocktail bars that rely heavily on imported spirits, Kayama distills, infuses, and prepares many of his own ingredients. Classic absinthe botanicals such as wormwood, fennel, and anise are grown on his family’s farm in Saitama Prefecture, then carried to the bar where they are turned into tinctures, bitters, and small-batch distillates. Every pour of absinthe is therefore not just a drink but also a narrative of agriculture, craftsmanship, and ritual.
Absinthe in Context
Absinthe carries a storied past. Popularized in 19th-century France and immortalized by artists like Toulouse-Lautrec and Van Gogh, it was banned in much of the world in the early 20th century before experiencing a revival in the 1990s and 2000s. At Bar Benfiddich, Kayama frames absinthe within a Japanese context. His serves are often accompanied by explanations of the herbs, their origins, and their symbolic roles in the spirit’s mystique, bridging European tradition with Japanese hospitality.
A Ritual of Service
The essence of Bar Benfiddich lies not only in what is served but how it is served. Guests seated at the narrow wooden counter watch Kayama prepare drinks with a near-ceremonial precision. He gently measures botanicals, flames herbs, and stirs with deliberate care, often employing antique glassware and vintage tools. The ritual has an alchemical quality, transforming the act of mixing a drink into an immersive performance that respects both the ingredients and the guest.
Beyond Absinthe
Though absinthe is a focal point, the bar is equally celebrated for its farm-to-bar cocktails. Kayama experiments with unusual botanicals, roots, and barks rarely encountered in Western bars. Forest-inspired infusions, wormwood vermouths, and herbal bitters highlight his philosophy of reconnecting cocktails with the land. This distinctive approach has won Bar Benfiddich global acclaim, including recognition on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, where it ranked number 32 in 2019.
Finding the Hidden Gem
For visitors, reaching Bar Benfiddich feels like a quest. It is tucked away on the ninth floor of the Kohsan Building in Nishi-Shinjuku, without a sign at street level. The anonymity adds to its allure, as though only those with insider knowledge can uncover it. Stepping inside, guests discover a warm, intimate space that feels at once mysterious and welcoming, a sanctuary where time slows and every detail matters.
Barlist Travel Guide
Address
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-13-7, Kohsan Building 9F, Shinjuku, Tokyo, Japan
Nearest Station
Shinjuku Station, a 5-minute walk from the West Exit
Opening Hours
Monday to Saturday: 6:00 PM – 2:00 AM
Closed on Sundays
Reservations
Walk-ins are possible, but seating is limited to about 15 guests. Reservations are strongly recommended on weekends.
Atmosphere
An intimate, dimly lit room with wooden interiors, antique tools, and an apothecary-like ambiance.
Specialties
Absinthe distilled with Japanese-grown wormwood, cocktails infused with herbs and roots from Kayama’s family farm, and theatrical preparation by Kayama himself.
Tips for Visitors
1. There is no sign at street level; look for the Kohsan
2. Building and take the elevator to the 9th floor. Expect a cover charge of around 1,000 yen.
3. The menu changes seasonally based on available herbs, so be open to Kayama’s creations.
4. Photography is permitted but should be discreet to preserve the atmosphere.
For the Barlist community, Bar Benfiddich exemplifies what makes cocktail travel so rewarding: discovery, immersion, and connection. A glass of absinthe here is not just a drink but the vision of a bartender who blends heritage, innovation, and personal philosophy into every serve. In Kayama’s hands, the garnish, the flame, the twist, and the pour become symbols of respect for nature and hospitality. To visit Bar Benfiddich is to step into a world where cocktails are stories, and each sip is an invitation into something extraordinary.